Monday, February 22, 2010

Dean Street Townhouse, London




I thought I was going to get away without having to review Dean Street Townhouse because having eaten here twice before I was confident that the required third meal could be avoided.

The reason for my third meal was a lunch with Helen the author of the brilliant World Foodie Guide . We were limited to Soho for the venue and somehow we settled on Dean Street Townhouse.

The Dean Street Townhouse has on the whole received very positive reviews but closer reading of the reviews may lead you to conclude that the food is no great shakes.

Well let me be very clear about the food , it is really awful in a nutshell poor quality ingredients more often than not very badly executed.The restaurant dinning room is really quite delightful and "clubby" but the kitchen seems to be unable to produce food that even matches those of Soho , Electric , Shoreditch , High Road and Babbington Houses !

My advice is go for some Oysters and a grilled Dover sole any dishes requiring a skilled cook/chef and good procurement are likely to disappoint.

For my most recent meal I started with twice baked haddock Souffle - it was not what I would call a souffle but I can confirm it had haddock in it followed by Pork cheeks with parsnip mash, glazed carrots and cider . The pork was of very poor quality and the sauce seemed to have been thickened with copious amounts of corn starch.

Other dishes I have tried chicken pie , salt beef , steak and roast chicken all average at best but frankly piss poor.

One wonders if there is any incentive for the Soho House Group to improve the food when reviews have largely been positive , the room is lovely, service is excellent and the place is fully booked with a good smattering of minor and major celebrities ?

I suspect Dean Street Townhouse Dinning Room has already achieved in a few months what Brasserie Lipp in Paris founded in 1880 has , a beautiful chic restaurant , great atmosphere serving dire food whilst still remaining popular .

Dean Street Townhouse on Urbanspoon

11 comments:

tehbus said...

I think this may be my favourite review of DST I have read. It echoes exactly what I feel, a serious case of style over substance.

gastrogeek said...

Yet another bad review of this place - will ensure I steer well clear!

Douglas Blyde said...

Very interesting review indeed. Your final paragraph seems an erudite conclusion. Thanks for saving me much money.

catty said...

I've never once read a review that made me want to go to Dean St Townhouse. And still haven't. :)

Lizzie said...

I can confirm the blood orange, crab and chicory salad is not a good choice - crab completely drowned out. The lemon sole was nice though.

Gastro1 said...

Lizzie , Catty , Douglas ,tehbus and gastrogeek

I'm sure that those that have not yet been will eventually find their way to DST and those that have not probably as well :-)

Tom said...

I have to admit I do enjoy a good biting review of a place which garners PR praise but food lovers suspicion.

Thanks for the briefing. I'lll still go probably though just so i can have my own stab : /

Tom

Helen said...

I'm quite glad to read this in a way. Not because you had a crap meal of course but because I've read good review and wondered what was wrong with me for not wanting to visit. It all just sounds so dull. Dull to start off with and then badly done. Well that's a winning combination then...

LondonRob said...

It's true that anything Soho House related is going to be able to dine out on the media/celeb factor but I actually think the food is pretty good. I had the pork chop the first time I went which was lovely and the champ accompanying it was perfect. Have also had the souffle which was a bit over-powered by the sauce but pretty decent and the pumpkin soup, also good. Maybe I'm just easily pleased?!

Cherie City said...

I went here for a light breakfast and was quite underwhelmed.
I had poached eggs on granary toast and that's actually all that it was - two eggs dipped in water and chucked onto some toasted loaf.
No salt, pepper or even a hint of vinegar, just really bland. I even had to ask for butter for the toast.
Not sure how the rest of the menu compares, but I could've done better at home for a fraction of the price.

Anonymous said...

What of the first two times you dined their, equally as piss poor? I disagree with this review, the food is of good quality and generally good value for money.