Showing posts with label Sanlúcar La Mayor - Seville. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Sanlúcar La Mayor - Seville. Show all posts

Tuesday, September 08, 2009

Hacienda Benazuza , La Alqueria

















When we entered La Alqueria Rafael Zafra who is the head chef and one of Ferrán Adriá right hand men met us. Rafa greeted our boys who he had met the night before and promised them a great experience to rival anything they may have tasted in their short but nevertheless impressive gastronomic education.

Rafa was not wrong the food and wine combined with superb service was worthy of mention alongside my first experience of Pierre Gagnaire (in St Etienne) in the early 1990's or other unique experiences at Frédy Girardet (Crissier), Troigros and of course Ferrán Adriá.

Rafael Zafra a native of Seville is only 27 and apart from Ferrán Adriá over the last 5 years, he has also worked with Fernando Barcenas (Aldebaran) Daniel Garcia (Trabaguches), Toño Perez (Atrio), Gerard Swaiger (Tristan restaurant).


The tasting menu was really stunning and one of the most enjoyable 3 hours I have ever spent with my family. It's not always easy to choose your wine on such occasions but I decided to stick with Spanish and we drank 2005 Lusco do Mino "Pazo Pineiro de Lusco" Albariño, Rias Baixas and Vega Sicilia Unico 1990 the former was familiar to me and turned out to work well with the myriad of tapas and sea food centred part of the tasting menu whilst Pepe Garcia the Sommelier assured me that the 1990 as opposed to 1995 Vega Sicilia would be better suit with the meat centric part of the menu. 1990 is not one of the great years but nevertheless it's a remarkable wine that has never disappointed me unlike the over hyped 1995 Pingus.

The tasting menu was really a masterpiece not just on an individual per dish basis but how everything worked so well as a whole. The highlights were a mock baguette wrapped in Iberico Ham, tempura flowers, red mullet fillets with mango and lime sorbet, duck foie gras with an almost chocolate like reduction and an incredible frozen white chocolate cake. Many of the dishes are staples tried and tested at El Bulli before being replaced by the newly developed dishes. The real point of difference here is Rafael Zafra who as a native Andalucian adds his talent and creativity to the tried and tested dishes but also some of his own that are obviously inspired by the region of his birth.

In summary Hacienda Benazuza provided us with one of the best boutique hotel stays and breakfasts ever as well as a dinner I am happy to include in my top 10 to date.

Sunday, September 06, 2009

Hacienda Benazuza , The Breakfast












The 7 course breakfast at the Hacienda Benazuza is an absolute delight and a wonderful way to start your day in this magical Hotel. If you have not yet dined in La Alqueria it gives you an early indication that there is some serious talent in the Kitchen.

Whilst eating some outstanding Jamon/Lomo Ibercico , Manchego as well fresh marinated Anchovies served with excellent crusty white (having arrived very late the night before) we noted that, both procuremnt and service was world class . Juan José Morán the "Director de Restauración " even asked us if for the following evening we wanted something "simple" for our boys as he knew the four of us were booked for dinner at La Alqueria.

Juan who is 33 was actually born in Sanlúcar La Mayor started working at the Hacienda Benazzuza in 1994 as an 18 year old and has risen through the ranks also spending two years at the Berkeley Hotel in London from 1996 to 1998.

Whilst chatting to Juan who was a consumate professional as well as being a delightful and engaging young man, I mentioned that the boys were very advanced gastronomically speaking, and mentioned a few restaurants and dishes they had already experienced. He then took our two sons to the kitchen as we finished our wine an excellent bottle of Silente from north of Seville. They came back delighted, saying that they had met the "head chef" and his team.

The breakfast is obviously designed to wake up all of your senses and everything from the outstanding pastries to superb juices , marmalades ,conserves, flavoured butters , marinated fruits , breakfast deserts to the finale of sumptuous egg based dishes.

When a Michelin starred kitchen brigade makes breakfast one can expect something special but when it's brigade from La Alqueira/El Bulli you get fireworks !

The rest of the day was spent realxing by the pool waiting in glorious anticipation for our tasting menu at La Alqueira.

Thursday, September 03, 2009

Hacienda Benazuza , Sanlúcar La Mayor - Seville



I recently spent two nights at the Hacienda Benazuza with my wife and two young sons and this is the first of three posts that cover a magical experience. The other posts will cover the amazing 7 course al frescoBreakfast and then Dinner at La Alqueria.








The El Bulli Hacienda Benazuza was originally a 10th century Moorish Estate, Hacienda Benazuza later became part of the crusading order of the Knights of Santiago and subsequently the property of a succession of noblemen honoured with the title “Count of Benazuza”. In 1998 the hotel formed an association with El Bulli (Ferrán Adriá) for the food and beverage side of the business and it is now part of the El Bulli Hotels and Resorts. The crowning glory of this association is the hotel's “La Alqueria” restaurant that currently boasts two Michelin stars. The Hacienda Benazuza is a veritable oasis surrounded by lush gardens and enclosed by white washed walls, where calm and seclusion pervades the air. The extended views of the centenary olive groves mix with the sensuous sound of the fountains and subtle smell of honeysuckle of the gardens. The inside of the hotel is a series Arabic patios and salons that create a timeless Andalusian environmentthat reflects the hotel’s rich historical past. The 44 bedrooms and suites are decorated with perfectly selected objects of art and valuable antiques that blend harmoniously with the more modern facilities one would expect from a world class five star boutique hotel.