Tuesday, March 09, 2010

Steak Frites : Mastering the cuts, video 2: the shalls & shallots of onglet

Here is the second of our daily release of the videos, shot by Brian Jones and co-produced by Dino Joannides Dino Joannides and Daniel Young, will form the backdrop of our “why do you love steak frites?” competition on twitter, hopefully inspiring your most poetic, passionate or playful responses. [HOW TO ENTER THE COMPETITION].

The Onglet is also one of our family favourites it has a massive flavour kick when properly cooked. To some the cut looks unattractive when removed from the carcass, a good knife can quickly transform it into a real beauty. Watching Dermot O'Shea preparing it is like poetry in motion. Onglet is two muscles divided by tough connective tissue, which must be removed, and is taken from the diaphragm of the animal. Because of it's location it has a slight gamey, offally flavour not present in any of the other loin cuts.

As Henry Harris says this is one of the classic Bistro steaks of France. It is beautiful cooked on a searing hot griddle and then rested until warm through, but it must be rare. Onglet is very fibrous and therefore must be cut across the grain. By doing this, you shorten the fibres and make them softer on the palate. Americans call it Hanger and we call it Thick Skirt.

The Onglet is often called the Butcher's Cut as it was thought that the butcher would keep it for himself and his family and maybe that's we like to call it Steak O'Shea.

The second video in our series shows Henry Harris" Chef Patron of Racine cooking Onglet aux échalottes or à la Bordelaise.