The Best Sunday Lunch Ever ? . Dine with Dos Hermanos at Goodman London June 26th 2011

Had an amazing Sunday Lunch yesterday . World class produce brilliantly executed by a really professional kitchen brigade led by John Cadieux and served by a superb FOH team marshalled by David Strauss. You can read all about it here

Johnnie Mountain Dinner chez les Critical Couple

Another stunning dinner, you can read all about it here

11 Park Walk , London

I was intrigued when I heard that Roberto Pisano (Edera) and his business partner John De Stefano ( Chairman of The London Fine Dinning Group where reopening the former site of Aubergine, a restaurant that in it's lifetime produced superb French inspired cuisine under both Gordon Ramsay and then William Drabble . Furthermore John De Stefano decided to name it 11 Park Walk the very name of the pre Aubergine restaurant.

John De Stefano a very successful property developer and owner of London Fine Dining Group already has the excellent Alloro and Zafferano in his portfolio. Roberto Pisano co owns 11 Park Walk as well Edera with John De Stefano and recently became General Manager of London Fine Dining Group.

Pisano was practically born in a restaurant in his native Sardinia and his experience spans both the kitchen and front of house. In London you may have come across this consumate professional at Edera, but he has in the past charmed customers at both San Lorenzo and the excellent Teca.

Edera's Giancarlo Usai also from Sardinia has now become Executive Chef of both Edera and 11 Park Walk and the kitchen hit the ground running producing pan Italian delights.

Roberto Pisano like me shares an addiction to the finest quality Bottarga as well as Truffles and I'm happy to say both feature strongly on the on and off menu dishes at 11 Park Walk.

On my various visits to 11 Park Walk I have had outstanding Bottarga centric dishes like Carpaccio di bottarga di muggine con carciofi e pomodorini (Mullet roe carpaccio with fresh artichokes and cherry tomatoes) , Malloreddusu con carciofi e bottarga (Malloreddusu with fresh artichokes and bottarga) and what is the finest Spaghetti a la bottarga that I have had outside Sardinia, the concentrated taste of finest Cabras bottarga blended with spaghetti that has been cooked in fish stock, coated in a foamy emulsion created in the pan where the dish is finished is simply phenomenal.




Other highlights include perfectly executed Branzino al sale (whole Baked Sea bass for two baked in salt) served table side. Truffles not only feature in a number of pasta dishes but also in deserts including the perverse but wonderful Zabaglione topped with Black Truffles.






Cleverly the owners are making 11 Park Walk all day dinning so for me it will become my pre or post match restaurant of choice for home games at Stamford Bridge.

11 Park Walk is not just a great addition to this part of Chelsea but will surely become a destination restaurant for those seeking fine Italian cuisine.

The BIG D

A Very Special Dinner Party

It's only mid January and I have probably already been to the dinner party of the year.

The food was cooked by Jason Atherton and wines included Petrus , Latour and Vega Sicilia to name but a few . Fellow guests where all passionate about food , wine or both.

I cannot really add much to this post from our wonderful hosts The Critical Couple

You can read about the Dinner Party food and wine here

What to match with the world's best Bordeaux-style reds

I was asked to contribute to one of my favourite Food and Wine sites on the subject of matching food with top Bordeaux style reds. You can read it here and the wonderful matching Food and Wine with Fiona Beckett can be found here

Current Favourite Food Suppliers

The Chelsea Fishmonger
10 Cale Street,
Chelsea,
London, SW3 3QU.
Tel: 020 7589 9432


Mortimer and Bennet
Delicatesen & Fine Foods
33 Turnham Green Terrace
London
W4 1RG
Tel : 020 8995 4145

Andreas Veg
35 Turnham Green Terrace
London
W4 1RG
Tel : 020 8995 0140

O'Shea's of Knightsbridge
Butchers
11 Montpelier St.
Knightsbridge
London
SW7 1EX
Telephone : 0207 581 7771

Beillevaire

7 Montpellier Street.
Knightsbridge
London SW7 1EX
Telephone



The Ham and Cheese Company

Bea's of Bloomsbury

Food in the City

Poilane

Rhodes Bakery

Peter's Yard

Valvona & Crolla

Has Bean Coffee

Square Mile Coffee Roaster

Rare Tea Company

Best in London 2010

Here is my list of best of London food shops , restaurants and wine establishments for 2010 and you can compare with 2009 ,2008 here 2007 here and 2006 here


Best Italian Restaurant (Southern) : L'Anima , Mennula

Best Italian Restaurant (Northern) : Alloro , Zafferano & Locanda Locatelli

Best Pan Italian : River Cafe

Best Indian : The Painted Heron

Best Indian (Modern) : Benares , Rasoi

Best Pakistani : Shezan & Saloos

Best Chinese : Hunan , Kai

Best Dim Sum : Pearl Liang and Royal China (Baker St)

Best Thai : Nahm

Best Japanese : Umu and Sake No Hana

Best Vietnamese : Mien Tay , Battersea

Best Lebanese/Syrian : Ishbilia , Knightsbridge

Best Greek : none in London are rated.

Best Turkish : Mangal Ocakbasi (Stoke Newington)

Best Sushi : Sushi - Hiro (Ealing)

Best French : Hibiscus , Gauthier Soho , Club Gascon , Alain Ducasse (Dorchester)

Best Modern British/European : The Ledbury , Petersham Nurseries , Pied a Terre ( with an Antipodean twist)

Best Spanish : Cambio de Tercio

Best Tapas : Barrafina , Barrica

Best English : St John's

Best Fish/Seafood : One - O - One , Knightsbridge

Best Gastro Pub : Anchor & Hope , Great Queen St

Best Sandwich : Fernandez and Wells , Kappacasein

Best Pub : The Ship (Wandsworth) , Drafthouse (Westbridge)

Best Selection of Beer : Draft House and The Rake

Best Wine Bar : 28-50

Best Brasserie : Le Cafe Anglais & Bob Bob Ricard

Best French Bistro/Bourgeois Cooking : Chabrot Bistro D'Amis , Racine , Bistro Bruno

Best Burger : Hawksmoor , Goodman , Byron Big D (limited edition special)

Best Mid Range Burger : Byron

Best joint Burger : The Meatwagon ,Grazing (Tower Hill)

Best Steak : Côte de Boeuf at Racine

Best Steak Restaurant : Hawksmoor , Goodman , The Rib Room

Best Grill : The Rib Room & The Dorchester Grill

Best Pizza : Franco Manca

Best Street Food : Mr Falafel and The Meatwagon

Best Value for money Wine List : Bob Bob Ricard

Best Value for Money Restaurant : Polpo & Mangal Ocakbasi

Best Newcomers in London 2010 : 101 Pimlico Road , The Dock Kitchen ,Texture and Goodman (City)

Best Italian Deli : none in London are rated.

Best Butcher : Oshea's of Knightbridge

Best Bakery : St John's Bread , Franco Manca , Poilane

Best Patisserie & Chocolatier : William Curley

Best Cakes and Brownies : Bea's of Bloomsbury

Best Gelato : Cocorino

Best Fishmonger : The Chelsea Fishmonger (Rex Goldsmith), Chelsea Green

Best Cheese Shop : La Fromagerie , Rippon and Beillevaire

Best Wine Merchants : Berry Brothers & Rudd , Bibendum Wines

Best Fruit & Veg : Andreas Georghiou (Turnham Green Terrace)

Sleigh Ride - The Ronettes

Merry Xmas to all and here is the best Xmas Song of all time !

10 Best UK Restaurants 2010

Toptable asked me to list my ten best restaurants for 2010. My selection in no particular order, was based on restaurants I have eaten in at least 3 times and at least once during 2010.

You can see the full list here

10 Best Pasta Dishes in London

I have selected 10 truly outstanding pasta dishes that have been eaten in London over the last 18 months. They are rated outstanding or great because in my opinion they are not only beautifully executed by very talented and skilled chefs but they have been prepared with world class ingredients. To this end they are in most cases as good or more often better than the equivalent dish sampled anywhere else in the world.

What is really encouraging is that many restaurants are now using top quality dry pasta like Pastificio dei Campi (in the case of Tinello and Locanda Locatelli where I have had outstanding pasta dishes many times but not in the last 18 months). It's a pity that so many other Italian and non Italian restaurants can't be bothered to source quality durum wheat , bronze dye (sauce gripping) pasta from Gragnano or Abruzzo and continue to use industrial commodity variants that are often inferior to the supermarket own brand dried pasta. Will the addition of a few pence to their cost per portion be punitive ?

Also the quality of the homemade pasta at Alloro , L'Anima (Pappardelle) and Zafferano (Pappardelle) Galvin Bistro De Luxe (Lasagne) was really exceptional.

I have also been privileged to watch some of these chefs cook the dishes and the memory of Francesco Mazzei creating "emulsione con emozione" whilst preparing Linguine alle Vongole will forever remain in my mind.

Those of you who are particularly observant will have noticed that Paul Merrony's Penne Putanesca would, to most Italians be a total anathema . Firstly the ideal shape for this type of sauce is Spaghetti and the addition of Parmigiano-Reggiano or any cheese should be avoided. Paul is his own man and I have to admit that this actually dish works and despite the imperfect pasta shape and addition of Parmigiano-Reggiano perhaps because it's combination with anchovy creates nothing short of an umami weapon of mass destruction.

If you live in London or are passing through I strongly recommend all the restaurants mentioned not only for the specific dishes but for a fabulous dinning experience.



Spaghetti with Meatballs by Paul Merrony at Giaconda Dinning Room


Pappardelle al sugo di lepre by Francesco Mazzei at L'Anima


Penne Putanesca by Paul Merrony at Giaconda Dinning Room


Spaghetti a la Carbonara made by my Roman Great Aunt


Lasagne of Dorset crab, beurre Nantais by Chris Galvin at Galvin Bistro de Luxe



Linguini alle Vongole by Francesco Mazzei at L'Anima


Pappardelle allo zafferano con guanciale di maiale by Andy Needham at Zafferano


Spaghetti alla Bottarga at Sardo


Pacheri di Gragnano “Nduja” e burrata by Frederico Sali at Tinello


Tagliolini ai funghi porcini by Daniele Camera at Alloro

20 Truly Great Dishes Eaten in London

I have selected twenty truly outstanding dishes that have been eaten in London over the last 18 months. They are rated outstanding or great because in my opinion they are not only beautifully executed by very talented and skilled chefs but they have been prepared with world class ingredients. To this end they are in most cases as good or more often better than the equivalent dish sampled anywhere else in the world.

Many of these dishes are on the surface simple like Zucchini Fritti, Zabalgione or various steaks. Sadly based on my experience in London most of the time ,these dishes are a massive disappointment due to poor sourcing and cooking, or, sometimes both.

If you live in London or are passing through I strongly recommend all the restaurants mentioned not only for the specific dishes but for a fabulous dinning experience.


O'Shea's of Knightsbridge Perthshire Black Angus Rib Eye on the bone at Goodman

Fish and Chips at 101 Pimlico Road

Rissoto with Black Truffles , Rousillion

Linguini alle Vongole l'Anima

Pizza with Chanterelle and Gloucester Old Spot Ham at Franco Manca , Brixton
Vitello Tonato , Giaconda Dinning Room

Zucchini Fritti at L'Anima

Zabalgione at Alloro

O'Shea's of Knightsbridge Perthshire Black Angus Onglet at Bob Bob Ricard

Frank Hederman Organic Smoked Salmon at Goodman , City

Crab with Crispy Noodles at Hunan

Sicilian Rabbit at L'Anima

Prawn , Vegetable and Fig Tempura at Sake No Hana

Spaghetti a la Bottarga at Sardo

Ris de veau aux morilles at Racine

O’Shea’s of Knightsbridge Munster Black Angus beef Côte de boeuf, Béarnaise sauce at Racine

Parmesan Custard at Le Café Anglais

Mini Doughnuts at The Harwood Arms

Steak and Mushroom Pie at The Anchor and Hope

O'Shea's of Knigtsbridge Pertshire Black Angus Bistecca Firoentina at Alloro

The Kitchin , Leith ,Edinburgh

Amuse-Bouche 1. Cheese Straws and Balls






Amuse-Bouche 2. Summer Courgette Soup



Saying hello to the Newhaven Live Lobster




Tartare of wild Salmon from Usan, served with diced apple and a lemon creme fraiche




Whole grilled lobster from Newhaven cooked Thermidor style, served with buttered samphire, sea spinach and sauteed squid



Rich Valrohna Manjari tart with Perthshire Rasberries and mint cream

Wine Consumed : HERMITAGE 'CHANTE-ALOUETTE' 2006 M.Chapoutier.


I have now eaten at The Kitchin four times , once in late 2007 , twice in 2008 and most recently on Thursday 19th of August 2010 , with my family (the pictures on this post are of what I ate on this day).

Every time with out exception I experienced world class cooking based on superbly sourced produce (most from Scotland's ample larder) coupled with first class service. All this in a relaxed , simple tastefully decorated restaurant.

Tom Kitchin is a great talent but he has also garnered a an impressive culinary education not only his many years with Pierre Koffman at Tante Claire , Royal Hospital Road ( he also returned to Tante Claire when it moved to the Berkeley ) but also Guy Savoy in Paris and Alain Ducasse's Louis XV in Monte Carlo.

I must have eaten Tom's cooking many times at Tante Claire and maybe even at Guy Savoy whilst he was there but at The Kitchin he is the man, and what a man , for me there is no better restaurant in the UK . I have not been as impressed with food in a restaurant in the British Isles since some of my early meals at Chez Nico , Tante Claire and the late Gunn Eriksen's, Altnaharrie Inn .

On this occasion it was a real pleasure to meet Tom for the first time and find a humble, charming individual who along with his brigade, produces perfectly executed and seasoned dishes.

My Tartare of wild Salmon from Usan, served with diced apple and a lemon creme fraiche was perfectly balanced and refreshing.

The whole grilled lobster from Newhaven cooked Thermidor style, served with buttered samphire, sea spinach and sauteed squid was really inspired with each ingredient perfectly seasoned and well - proportioned to create a superlative synthesis .

I finished a wonderful Rich Valrohna Manjari tart with Perthshire Rasberries which showed again that the brigade is strong in executing every course be it savoury or sweet.

The HERMITAGE 'CHANTE-ALOUETTE' 2006 from Chapoutier was sublime and served at the correct tempreture also worked well with my wife's Scallop starter and Turbot main.

The Kitchin’s sister restaurant Castle Terrace openeded on 14th July on Castle Terrace in central Edinburgh, with Chef and co patron Dominic Jack behind the stove. Edinburgh-born Dominic Jack who worked as a trainee with Tom at Gleneagles has followed a similar career path that has included L’Arpège and Taillevent in Paris. It seems that Tom Kitchin is expanding in a controlled and intelligent way , whilst spending most of his time in the Kitchen !

I'm already planning a long week end in Edinburgh.

28-50 , London

28-50 Wine Workshop & Kitchen is the newest venture from Xavier Rousset and Agnar Sverrisson, the restaurateurs behind the award-winning Michelin-starred restaurant Texture. It opened last month a stones throw from El Vino, it aims to deliver an exceptional variety of wines at fair prices alongside simple French inspired food.

Sverrisson and Rousset met while working as head chef and head sommelier respectively at Le Manoir aux Quat’Saisons . They have also hired the charming and very professional Ed Newman who I remembered from High Road House and Shoreditch House.

Named after the latitudes in which most wine regions are located, 28-50 Wine Workshop & Kitchen has on the surface some similarities to Terroirs however one you study the wine lists and menu the differences are immediately apparent.

Rousset is an award winning master sommelier and this shows in both the collectors list” including wines such as 1978 Château Léoville Las Cases , 1984 Ridge Montebello or 1995 Ornellaia alongside an extensive list of 30 wines at very reasonable prices – all of which are available by the bottle, carafe or glass. The list will be continually evolving with the aim of allowing guests to experiment in their wine choices, and a winemaker is featured every month.

The Head Chef Paul Walsh was last at Gordon Ramsey Hospital Road and this shows through in terms of presentation and sophistication.The food at Terroirs is on the whole more rustic and the portions more generous.

My only gripe about 28-50 is in fact the size of the portions , on the first of my three visits I wondered for a brief moment if I was in Lilliput being served food one-twelfth the size of an acceptable portion. Unfortunately this is more and more common in London where crude empiricists develop price points for dishes and then build the food and margin into them, either by size or (often inferior) quality of ingredients. At 28-50 the 10 dishes I ate in three visits were all either good or very good and very well executed.

On my most recent visit my companion and I started with plate of Charcuterie to share can only really satisfy two fictional inhabitants of Lilliput and Blefuscu. At £11.50 this was not good value despite being served with excellent toasted brown bread.

I followed this with a starter Confit salmon with cucumber, basil and
tomato vinaigrette that was perfectly sized for a starter and very good value at £6.50 .

My main course of Icelandic salt cod with chorizo and couscous at £14.95 was again a very good dish but with not really enough on the plate.

I finished with probably he smallest sized desert I have ever been served, a truly delightful Almond cake with peach sorbet and fresh raspberries (1 to be exact) at £6.00. The Almond cake must have been baked in a thimble to achieve those absurd proportions.

We drank a glass of 2009 St Nicolas de Bourgueil, Mabileau served at the optimum tempreture and, a rather good 2001 Rioja Reserva, Vina Arana, La Rioja Alta.

Despite my comments about portion control 28-50 is a welcome addition to the wine bar/bistro scene in London with great value wines at all levels , quality food and excellent service.

Royal Oak

I recently made my third visit to the Royal Oak and enjoyed another marvelous and relaxed, 3 hour meal that served to confirm why this is one of my favourite places to eat in the UK.

This pub was transformed in early 2007 with the arrival of Dominic Chapman (brilliantly profiled here by Douglas Blyde ) a man whose wonderful cooking I first tasted in the late 90's at the Fat Duck (a very different menu in those days) and Fat Duck Bistro in the Bray Marina (a joint venture between Heston and footballer Lee Dixon) and more recently at the Hinds Head where Dominic was Head Chef. Chances are that I ate some of Dominic's cooking whilst he was working as chef de partie at Kensington Place for Rowley Leigh.

Dominic was away on holiday in Greece so it was also to be my first meal at the Royal Oak whilst he was away.

Since Chapman’s arrival at The Royal Oak, it has been crowned AA Restaurant of the Year, England, 2008-09, and Chapman was named by The Good Food Guide as Best Pub Chef 2009 and as Best Young Chef 2009 in the Tatler Restaurant Awards. Earlier this year it received a much deserved Michelin Star. Credit to Michael and Nick Parkinson for bringing in such a fine Chef.

My recent meal was typical fresh seasonal food made with superb ingredients . Sourcing is one of the real strengths of this restaurant be it meat , fish , fruit and vegetables or cheese.





The (irresistible) Scotch Eggs served as a perfect transition from a G&T to the starter of stuffed courgette flower . This was stuffed with Ricotta and served with fresh peas , beetroot , artichoke hearts and lightly dressed in olive oil. I would rank this as the best consumed in the UK, alongside a classic fried version with Mozzarella and anchovies that I had many moons ago at The Walnut Tree Inn in South Wales. My companion was delighted by his Chicken Liver and Foie Gras Parfait, Fig Chutney and Toasted Brioche .

We drank the potent White ,Châteauneuf-du-Pape from Doamine Chant Perdix, 2007 with our starter and main. The Grenache, Roussane, Clairette and Bourboulenc blend worked very well with both courses.



For the mains I had Line Caught Sea Bass with Sweet Young Peas, Radish, Lettuce and Bacon (see picture) whilst my companion had Roast Cornish Turbot with Samphire, Cockles and Mussels . The fish was in both cases beautifully cooked (often the best test of a kitchen when the Head Chef is away) The triple cooked chips here are in my view the best in the UK and only a close second to those at La Tupina in Bordeaux fried in Goose fat.

We drank a rather good Paulliac Cru Bouregois, 2000, Château Haut-Bages Monpelou with our cheese Alderwood, Berkswell, Ogleshield, Gorwydd Caerphilly, Waterloo, Harbourne Blue) and had time round off the meal with a couple of Delamin Pale and Dry XO's before rushing off to catch the 4.08pm train from Twyford to London.

I live in hope that the Royal Oak copies the Pot Kiln and opens a London outpost. Of course I also know the perfect location and it's less than 300 metres from my home !