Top 5 Meals in London 2011

Toptable asked me to rate my top 5 meals in London during 2011 it was a tough choice but you can can read my choices here

Ben Spalding dinner chez les Critical Couple

Ben Spalding created a spectacular feast for all the guests at the 5th Critical Couple Dinner . Read all about it here and watch out for this 24 year old talent as he is clearly a rare talent

Alyn Williams Dinner chez les Critical Couple

Another superb evening at the Critical Couple you can read all about it here

The BIG D

Best in London 2010

Here is my list of best of London food shops , restaurants and wine establishments for 2010 and you can compare with 2009 ,2008 here 2007 here and 2006 here


Best Italian Restaurant (Southern) : L'Anima , Mennula

Best Italian Restaurant (Northern) : Alloro , Zafferano & Locanda Locatelli

Best Pan Italian : River Cafe

Best Indian : The Painted Heron

Best Indian (Modern) : Benares , Rasoi

Best Pakistani : Shezan & Saloos

Best Chinese : Hunan , Kai

Best Dim Sum : Pearl Liang and Royal China (Baker St)

Best Thai : Nahm

Best Japanese : Umu and Sake No Hana

Best Vietnamese : Mien Tay , Battersea

Best Lebanese/Syrian : Ishbilia , Knightsbridge

Best Greek : none in London are rated.

Best Turkish : Mangal Ocakbasi (Stoke Newington)

Best Sushi : Sushi - Hiro (Ealing)

Best French : Hibiscus , Gauthier Soho , Club Gascon , Alain Ducasse (Dorchester)

Best Modern British/European : The Ledbury , Petersham Nurseries , Pied a Terre ( with an Antipodean twist)

Best Spanish : Cambio de Tercio

Best Tapas : Barrafina , Barrica

Best English : St John's

Best Fish/Seafood : One - O - One , Knightsbridge

Best Gastro Pub : Anchor & Hope , Great Queen St

Best Sandwich : Fernandez and Wells , Kappacasein

Best Pub : The Ship (Wandsworth) , Drafthouse (Westbridge)

Best Selection of Beer : Draft House and The Rake

Best Wine Bar : 28-50

Best Brasserie : Le Cafe Anglais & Bob Bob Ricard

Best French Bistro/Bourgeois Cooking : Chabrot Bistro D'Amis , Racine , Bistro Bruno

Best Burger : Hawksmoor , Goodman , Byron Big D (limited edition special)

Best Mid Range Burger : Byron

Best joint Burger : The Meatwagon ,Grazing (Tower Hill)

Best Steak : Côte de Boeuf at Racine

Best Steak Restaurant : Hawksmoor , Goodman , The Rib Room

Best Grill : The Rib Room & The Dorchester Grill

Best Pizza : Franco Manca

Best Street Food : Mr Falafel and The Meatwagon

Best Value for money Wine List : Bob Bob Ricard

Best Value for Money Restaurant : Polpo & Mangal Ocakbasi

Best Newcomers in London 2010 : 101 Pimlico Road , The Dock Kitchen ,Texture and Goodman (City)

Best Italian Deli : none in London are rated.

Best Butcher : Oshea's of Knightbridge

Best Bakery : St John's Bread , Franco Manca , Poilane

Best Patisserie & Chocolatier : William Curley

Best Cakes and Brownies : Bea's of Bloomsbury

Best Gelato : Cocorino

Best Fishmonger : The Chelsea Fishmonger (Rex Goldsmith), Chelsea Green

Best Cheese Shop : La Fromagerie , Rippon and Beillevaire

Best Wine Merchants : Berry Brothers & Rudd , Bibendum Wines

Best Fruit & Veg : Andreas Georghiou (Turnham Green Terrace)

10 Best Pasta Dishes in London

I have selected 10 truly outstanding pasta dishes that have been eaten in London over the last 18 months. They are rated outstanding or great because in my opinion they are not only beautifully executed by very talented and skilled chefs but they have been prepared with world class ingredients. To this end they are in most cases as good or more often better than the equivalent dish sampled anywhere else in the world.

What is really encouraging is that many restaurants are now using top quality dry pasta like Pastificio dei Campi (in the case of Tinello and Locanda Locatelli where I have had outstanding pasta dishes many times but not in the last 18 months). It's a pity that so many other Italian and non Italian restaurants can't be bothered to source quality durum wheat , bronze dye (sauce gripping) pasta from Gragnano or Abruzzo and continue to use industrial commodity variants that are often inferior to the supermarket own brand dried pasta. Will the addition of a few pence to their cost per portion be punitive ?

Also the quality of the homemade pasta at Alloro , L'Anima (Pappardelle) and Zafferano (Pappardelle) Galvin Bistro De Luxe (Lasagne) was really exceptional.

I have also been privileged to watch some of these chefs cook the dishes and the memory of Francesco Mazzei creating "emulsione con emozione" whilst preparing Linguine alle Vongole will forever remain in my mind.

Those of you who are particularly observant will have noticed that Paul Merrony's Penne Putanesca would, to most Italians be a total anathema . Firstly the ideal shape for this type of sauce is Spaghetti and the addition of Parmigiano-Reggiano or any cheese should be avoided. Paul is his own man and I have to admit that this actually dish works and despite the imperfect pasta shape and addition of Parmigiano-Reggiano perhaps because it's combination with anchovy creates nothing short of an umami weapon of mass destruction.

If you live in London or are passing through I strongly recommend all the restaurants mentioned not only for the specific dishes but for a fabulous dinning experience.



Spaghetti with Meatballs by Paul Merrony at Giaconda Dinning Room


Pappardelle al sugo di lepre by Francesco Mazzei at L'Anima


Penne Putanesca by Paul Merrony at Giaconda Dinning Room


Spaghetti a la Carbonara made by my Roman Great Aunt


Lasagne of Dorset crab, beurre Nantais by Chris Galvin at Galvin Bistro de Luxe



Linguini alle Vongole by Francesco Mazzei at L'Anima


Pappardelle allo zafferano con guanciale di maiale by Andy Needham at Zafferano


Spaghetti alla Bottarga at Sardo


Pacheri di Gragnano “Nduja” e burrata by Frederico Sali at Tinello


Tagliolini ai funghi porcini by Daniele Camera at Alloro

20 Truly Great Dishes Eaten in London

I have selected twenty truly outstanding dishes that have been eaten in London over the last 18 months. They are rated outstanding or great because in my opinion they are not only beautifully executed by very talented and skilled chefs but they have been prepared with world class ingredients. To this end they are in most cases as good or more often better than the equivalent dish sampled anywhere else in the world.

Many of these dishes are on the surface simple like Zucchini Fritti, Zabalgione or various steaks. Sadly based on my experience in London most of the time ,these dishes are a massive disappointment due to poor sourcing and cooking, or, sometimes both.

If you live in London or are passing through I strongly recommend all the restaurants mentioned not only for the specific dishes but for a fabulous dinning experience.


O'Shea's of Knightsbridge Perthshire Black Angus Rib Eye on the bone at Goodman

Fish and Chips at 101 Pimlico Road

Rissoto with Black Truffles , Rousillion

Linguini alle Vongole l'Anima

Pizza with Chanterelle and Gloucester Old Spot Ham at Franco Manca , Brixton
Vitello Tonato , Giaconda Dinning Room

Zucchini Fritti at L'Anima

Zabalgione at Alloro

O'Shea's of Knightsbridge Perthshire Black Angus Onglet at Bob Bob Ricard

Frank Hederman Organic Smoked Salmon at Goodman , City

Crab with Crispy Noodles at Hunan

Sicilian Rabbit at L'Anima

Prawn , Vegetable and Fig Tempura at Sake No Hana

Spaghetti a la Bottarga at Sardo

Ris de veau aux morilles at Racine

O’Shea’s of Knightsbridge Munster Black Angus beef Côte de boeuf, Béarnaise sauce at Racine

Parmesan Custard at Le Café Anglais

Mini Doughnuts at The Harwood Arms

Steak and Mushroom Pie at The Anchor and Hope

O'Shea's of Knigtsbridge Pertshire Black Angus Bistecca Firoentina at Alloro

Alloro , London

Picture courtesy of Douglas Blyde

A recent invitation to a Sardinian feast at Alloro by the London Fine Dinning Group prompted me to revise my view of both the quantity and quality of top class Italian Restaurants in London .

It was a pleasure to have Douglas Blyde as a dining companion not only because of his "intoxicating prose" but because he takes beautiful pictures too, and I can then focus on the food and wine !

I first ate at Alloro in 2003 what was an above average for London Italian lunch and then again a year or so later experienced an exceptional dinner just before Christmas. What happened in that period is that Daniele Camera who originates from Turin took over as head chef. The restaurant itself reminds me of the timeless establishments one finds in Turin and Milan , understated elegance , superb service and a kitchen that delivers year in year out.

The evening was co sponsored by Feudi della Medusa and Vallebona Sardinian Gourmet.

Menu

Chef’s Selection of Canapés
Prosecco
*
Musamari de tùnnu con fasobeddu e pilarda
Wind dried tuna with green beans and sun dried tomatoes
~Albithia Vermentino di Sardegna 2008~
*
Supa de freula e coccioba
Soup of Sardinian cous-cous with tiny clams
~Alba Nora Isola dei Nuraghi 2007~
*
Malloreddus a sa moda campidanesa
Sardinian pasta with fresh sausage, tomato and pecorino cheese
~Cannonau di Sardegna 2006~
*
Proceddu e patatasa arrustidasa
Roast suckling pig with roast potatoes
~Gerione Isola dei Nuraghi 2006~
*
Sebadas cun meli de olioni
Traditional Sardinian cheese fritters with Corbezzolo Honey
~Aristeo Vino Passito 2005~
*
Caffei & Murta
Coffee & Traditional Myrtle Berry Liqueur


For me the stars of the evening were the Supa de freula e coccioba matched with Alba Nora Isola dei Nuraghi 2007 and Proceddu e patatasa arrustidasa matched with Gerione Isola dei Nuraghi 2006 . The soup was perfectly balanced and a perfect example of Daniele Camera's light touch whilst the Suckling Pig was one of the best I have eaten in the UK.

The Alba Nora Isola dei Nuraghi 2007 is a wonderful example of how you can make wonderful Chardonnay in Italy . The wine is an intense yellow with a flint and toasted almond bouquet coupled with a hint of sea salt taste.

Gerione Isola dei Nuraghi 2006 is a blend of Bovale , Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah and Cabernet Franc .Maleolactic fermentation takes place in barriques . Maturation is for 18 months in 225 litre Ailler and Tronçais oak barriques. The scent reminds one of cherries with a tinge of Muscat and liquorice .There is a long lasting flavour that heightens the cherry and small fruit scents; a taste of tannin emerges at the back of the mouth that gives the wine its persona.

The delightful Claudio Benvenuti a Tuscan ex Frescobaldi who was seduced by Feudi della Medusa gave us a detailed history and background to all the indigenous and non indigenous wines the winery produces.

Those of us who live in London are really fortunate to have access to excellence at Alloro , Locanda Locatelli , L'Anima , Semplice and Zafferano . Alongside the aforementioned we also have some really good neighbourhood Italians like Edera , Enoteca Turi , Sardo and Locanda Ottoemezzo . Can we say the same in terms of quality and numbers about Chinese , Japanese or even Indian/Pakisatni cuisine ?

Bar Boulud , London

3 Michelin Starred Chef Daniel Boulud’s first UK restaurant, Bar Boulud, London opened its doors on May 6th at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London for Breakfast, Lunch and Dinner. I am told breakfast will only be served until Heston Blumenthal opens his restaurant in the same Hotel later this year and I'm assured the breakfast menu will not be based on his work for Little Chef.

The Adam D. Tihany designed interior seats 169 in two large connecting rooms, the first has zinc topped bar and the second has a vista of the open kitchen. Materials such as wood, leather and cork add a contemporary touch and the bar a vin theme showcases the craft of wine making, including walled wine stains from Chef Boulud’s favourite vintages and photography by Blaise Adilon of various renowned Lyon bistros and brasseries. Guests can watch the chefs at work at the charcuterie bar running along the edge of the open kitchen or dine in one of the two interconnecting private dining rooms, both seating 16 people each. The management are forecasting serving circa 700 covers a day and from what I saw on my visits so far they have a top team in place to do so.

Dean Yasharian from Bar Boulud in New York has come over as Executive Chef and Stephen Macintosh from The Wolseley is the General Manager, Bar Boulud, London looks set to follow in the success of Daniel Boulud's "diffusion" range of restaurants in NYC, Café Boulud, Bar Boulud, DB Bistro Moderne and, most recently, DBGB Kitchen and Bar, on the Bowery.

A full bistro menu is based on seasonal, bourgeois French cooking and includes dishes such as Truffled White Sausage, Grilled Atlantic Sea Bass, Braised Rabbit Ragout and Coq au Vin as well as a selection of terrines and pâtés made on site under the direction of acclaimed charcutier Gilles Vérot. Alongside the classic bistro fare we have a selection of Burgers from Danile Boulud's second tier eateries. Wine has a focus on Burgundy and the Rhône Valley, an impressive selection of wines, by the glass and by the bottle, and occasionally from Magnums, Jeroboams and Rehoboams, feature old world wines as well as new world selections made in the Rhône or Burgundy spirit. A selection of beers is also available on draft from small, artisanal producers and continental microbreweries with specially designed glassware for tasting portions.

Everything I have eaten is beautifully prepared and I'm sure sourcing will improve over time as is the case with many transplants from the US.

In terms of food though what I think is truly disruptive for London is not the much anticipated burger(s). Though perfectly good, even in New York not considered to be in the same class as Minetta Tavern or the Spotted Pig for instance but for me the Charcuterie of Gilles Vérot is the star of the show. Bizarrely I first tasted the product of this Pierre Hermé of charcuterie" in New York before visiting his boutiques in Paris . When in New York I understood that the Charcuterie is made on site by a master Charcutier supplied by Gilles Vérot. In the case of London it is Nicholas Maragou that is preparing truly world class Charcuterie in London.

We are very fortunate to have both Pierre Hermé and Gilles Vérot delights in London and for those who have not been to Catherine and Gille Vérot's boutique Charcuterie's in Paris it's worth going there just for that !

All I can say is at the moment is thanks to Daniel Boulud and the Mandarin Oriental , London "nous sommes gâtés ". I have already enjoyed some of Nicholas Maragou's delights for breakfast and cannot think of a better stop over on the way to work !

I predict Bar Boulud despite the constraints of being in a Hotel will be a great success. It has a wonderful room , service is superb and where it trumps The Wolseley par example is on what the kitchen delivers in each and every plate or board.

Sardo , London

I recently returned to Sardo after not having been for about a year. On this occasion it was a lunchtime walk in with my business partner who was over from LA.

Returning to Sardo was like running into a a very dear old friend who for one reason or another one has not seen for a while. Nothing had really changed much be it the simple decor or olives and the perfect Pane carasau, or carta da musica, the traditional flatbread from Sardinia.

Sardo and Primrose Hill sister Sardo Canale remains in my opinion the best Sardinian restaurant in London . To check standards were high I could not resist the Spaghetti a la Bottarga to start and it was truly sensational made with a generous quantity of top class Sardinian Grey Mullet roe not the cheap pulvarised stuff often used in inferior restaurants. My companion joined me on both the Spaghetti and to follow a simple but beautifully executed grilled medium rare dish of Yellowfin Tuna with asparagus , cherry tomatoes and rocket.

We shared a portion of Sebadas (Sardinian puff pastries with honey) with our espresso's before heading off to our next meeting.

I need to return soon for a longer meal and to revisit the excellent Sardinain and Italian centric wine list.

Steak Frites : Mastering the cuts video 6 .The Finale la Côte de Boeuf

Here is the sixth and final release of the videos, shot by Brian Jones and co-produced by Dino Joannides Dino Joannides and Daniel Young, will form the backdrop of our “why do you love steak frites?” competition on twitter, hopefully inspiring your most poetic, passionate or playful responses. [HOW TO ENTER THE COMPETITION].

The Rib Eye on the bone or Cowboy Steak as Americans call it and Côte de Boeuf as it's known in France is normally cut for two to share so perfect for lovers and good friends.In fact I know some couples who call it the kiss and make up steak. It is basically a thick rib eye with the bone attached. The bone always enhances a steak and this cut presents beautifully and theatrically when carved, and served at the table either in a restaurant or at home . This is one of the cuts that does benefit from aging at O'Shea's it is aged for 45 - 55 days. A well aged and marbled Côte de Boeuf should not need a sauce and is perfect with good Mustard or Bearnaise as a condiment.

In the final video in the series Henry Harris Chef Patron of Racine Restaurant shows how he cooks a wonderful Irish Black Angus Grass Fed and Barley Finished Côte de Boeuf from O'Shea's of Knightsbridge. This combination of chef and butcher has now attained cult status with the cognoscenti claiming it is the best in the world. Henry Harris prefers to use a thick pan as well plenty of butter but as important is resting the meat.

Steak Frites : Mastering the cuts, video 1. Frites

To enhance and celebrate our shared appreciation for an unsurpassed pairing of meat and potatoes, youngandfoodish launches steak frites – mastering the cuts, a series of 6 web videos featuring Racine Chef Patron Henry Harris, with meat by Darragh O’Shea of O’Shea’s of Knightsbridge.

The daily release of the videos, shot by Brian Jones a co-production between Daniel Young and Dino Joannides, will form the backdrop of our “why do you love steak frites?” competition on twitter, hopefully inspiring your most poetic, passionate or playful responses. [HOW TO ENTER THE COMPETITION].

The winner, along with his or her guest, will be invited to the premiere of the youngandfoodish 3-steak tasting dinners at Racine on Monday, 22nd March. Henry Harris will prepare three cuts of O’Shea beef in the styles best suited to each: onglet aux échalottes, filet au poivre, côte de boeuf with béarnaise sauce. The meat will be matched to three bistro-style reds selected by Peter Lowe of Berkmann Wine Cellars.

Of course there is no steak frites without potatoes. Not just any potatoes, but floury potatoes like Desiree, Maris Piper that score 5 on the waxy / floury scale cut in the ideal shape for holding and dipping. As Harris explains in the first video, you never need to use a fork with frites:

Zafferano, London

I was lucky enough to eat many times at Zafferano between 1995 and 1998 when Giorgio Locatelli was Head Chef. It was here that I have eaten some of the best Italian food in the UK along with Giorgio's eponymous Locanda Locatelli , L'Anima and Franco Taruschio's The Walnut Tree Inn.

After Giorgio’s departure, his number two, Andrew Needham, took over the reins and I continued to be delighted by my meals between 1999 onwards however I must confess that until last Thursday I had not eaten there for a couple of years. Needham has an excellent background starting as a teenager at the Savoy prior to working at Paris’ Le Pre Catalan followed by a stint at Giorgio’s uncle’s La Cinzianella on the borders of Lombardy and Piedmont.

I am pleased to report that my meal was up to the usual high standard and despite having limited time as my companion had to return to Saudi Arabia I had two lovely courses ( no vino )

My Pappardelle allo zafferano con guanciale di maiale (Homemade saffron pappardelle with pig cheeks) was outstanding . The quality of the pigs cheeks was apparent unlike some very poor ones I recently had at Dean Street Townhouse.

The Tonno alla griglia con rucola e pomodorini siciliani (Char grilled tuna with rocket and Sicilian cherry tomatoes) was a simple well executed dish where the basic ingredients stood out from the Tuna itself to the choice of tomatoes and rocket.

We finished with excellent esspreso and a mini pistacio ice cream cone on the casa !

Service was both totally professional and charming.

I intend to return here soon and try some of the other dishes especially those that feature veal and see if Needham's reputation for meticulous procurement applies to everything that appears on the menu.

Terroirs, London

I finally had my third meal at Terroirs and really wish I had been more often since it opened especially when I think about how many poor meals and unimaginative wine lists I have been subjected to over the past six months.

On my most recent visit last week I started with the Cantabrian Anchovies , Shallots & Unsalted Butter , this is great starter that gets your taste buds racing for what is to come. To follow I enjoyed a really delicious Cassoulet finishing off with some cheese, Fourme d’Ambert, Rocamadour, Soumaintrain and Saint Nectaire . My only quibble was the Toulouse sausage in the Cassoulet was not good enough and maybe not even a genuine Toulouse however the other meats were perfect.



My companion had a Selection of Charcuterie that included Duck Rillettes ,Saucisson “Noir de Bigorre” and Pork & Pistachio Terrine. He then had a fabulous roast Quail dish and also finished off with cheese.



We drank a glass of Champagne Philipponnat Royale Réserve Brut followed by a superb Trinchero Barbera d'Asti 2003 ending with a glass of 2007 Moscato d’Asti, Vigna Vecchia, Ca’ da Gal.



This was my first meal in the downstairs section of Terroirs and it was as good as the other meals I have enjoyed upstairs . For me Terroirs ticks all the boxes, a very good well chosen wine list with simple well selected , procured and executed dishes complimented by very high levels of service.

Terroirs has a simple Philosophy: Great food and great wine sourced with an eager eye for provenance and as long as they continue to deliver they will have my regular custom.

101 Pimlico Road , London

101 Pimlico Road occupies the site of one of Chelsea's famous Italian restaurants, La Fontana and most recently Vivezza. La Fontana established in the 60's attracted a slighter older segment of the Chelsea set and was famous for it's seasonal truffle menus. It was therefore no surprise to spot one of London's Truffle purveyors, Alfredo pop in and have a chat with Keith Goddard the Head Chef at 101. In fact I actually smelt him before I saw him as, his leather "man bag" was full of Tuber's.

I first met Keith Goddard during his stint at O'Shea's Knightsbridge where he spent a year learning about top class meat from an 8th generation butcher and his father. When you consider how much poor quality meat is served in London restaurants of all types one can only hope other aspiring and even established chefs consider investing time and effort understanding key elements of their supply chain. It was actually at O'Shea's of all places that Keith produced simply the best Chocolate Brownie I have ever had.

Keith is still in his late twenties,and a graduate of The French Culinary Institute in New York. He has since developed his skills in a couple of start up restaurants in NYC then at Oliver Peyton's The Wallace and with Tom Aikens eponymous restaurant in Chelsea.

Will Guess who now owns and runs Rowley's in Jermyn Street (after taking over from his father) is the main investor and with Keith running the kitchen we have one of London's youngest teams to launch a new restaurant.

My original plan was to visit 101 with one of Keith's mentors but for various reasons this was not possible. The restaurant is still less than 3 months old and after some teething problems front of house the operation seems well set to support the beautifully executed food.

On my most recent visit with my wife for lunch we both had a really light and subtle confit of salmon served with a truffled egg.

My main of Battered Cod with truffle chips , spinach and lemon beurre blanc was a revelation. My wife adored her lobster and octopus salad made with the freshest leaves and herbs I have tasted for some time , in fact she was positively reluctant to let me taste.

Both deserts ; Crème Brulée with cinnamon shortbread and Chocolate Tart with peanut butter ice cream sprinkled with Maldon Salt were exemplary.

We drank a decent Pouilly Fume "Des Coques" 2007 .

My only quibble in fact is the wine list that though well chosen is rather limited in numbers and choice of wines but I'm assured this is a work in progress and a more extensive wine list is being developed.

101 Pimlico road is a welcome addition to both the area and the London restaurant scene .