Best of 2008

Here are my best for 2008 (London)

Best Italian Restaurant : L'Anima

Best Indian : Bombay Palace

Best Indian (Modern) : Benares

Best Chinese : Hunan

Best Japanese : Nobu , Park Lane

Best French : The Square and Pied a Terre

Best Spanish : Cambio de Tercio

Best Tapas : Fino & Barfina

Best Fish/Seafood : J Sheekey

Best Gastro Pub : Anchor & Hope

Best Wine Bar : El Vino , Fleet Street

Best Brasserie : Le Caprice

Best Value Wine List : Andrew Edmunds

Most over rated : The Wolsey , River Cafe and Sketch

Best Butcher : Lidgate , Holland Park and Allens of Mayfair

Best Baker : Baker & Spice , Chelsea

Best Fishmonger : The Chelsea Fishmonger (Rex Glodsmith),Chelsea Green

Best Cheese Shop : La Fromagerie

Best Wine Merchants : Berry Brothers & Rudd , St James's

Best Fruit & Veg : Andreas Georghiou , Turnham Green Terrace

L'Anima my new favourite Italian in London

I have been recommending this place to people since the summer simply on the basis of word of mouth from people I respect and specifically from people who know and understand Italian cuisine. The theme here is southern Italian especially Calabria as well as the Islands Scicily and Sardinia.
Today is the day I went and had a perfect, faultless lunch.

I can already say I prefer L'Anima ( Italian for Soul ) to Locanda Locatelli ( great food but portion control gone mad) and Enoteca Tui (where the wine list is the star) - by the way for those who think the River Cafe is a serious Italian Restaurant I suggest you click to another review !

The Pappardelle with Wild Boar Sauce, a great winter dish was perfect as was a stunning Sicilian Rabbit a dish that captured everything that is good about food from that Island.

The contorni were perfect - thin , light and crispy fried Zucchini and perfect lime and chilli infused sauted spinach.

The olives and bread were excellent as was my cheese with hazelnut honey - a superb Pecorino Sardo !

Deserts looked amazing too and the wine list is very well selected not just with the great , Barolos , Brunellos and Super Tuscans but some great value wines from the very serious wine makers like , Haas , Felluga , etc. There are also top class wines from France and Spain.

Esspresso ? well perfeto !

I'm really happy for Fracesco Mazzei who left the clutches of Corbin and King those once great restaurateurs who are unfortunateley ruining their good reputations with poor excuses for restaurants like The Wolsey.

Anyway I shall return to try the Black Pig Pork Belly , Safron and Quail Risotto not to mention the top class grilled meats and fish ! As well as deserts of course.

On the left there are raised tables and stools for a quick lunch/dinner and the restaurant also opens for breakfast - apparently excellent too for the local italian Merchant Bankers who miss their Mamas !

Update June 1st 2009

I have tried to eat in L'Anima at least once a month since it opened and am happy to say that standards remain high and attention to detail is second to none.

Had a wonderful meal here today.

Douglas Blyde had tipped me off that Fracesco Mazzei was away but the kitchen was on top form under head chef Luca Tarraneo.

My objective today was to debrief a very good friend who was not so keen on Italian food and wine . This of course is a challenge in London where good Italian restaurants can be counted on one hand.

I started with Paccheri Amatriciana which was delicious as usual my only quibble is all the pasta starter portions are too small if youhave not had an antipasti.
My Black Pig Slow Roasted Belly with Cantarata sauce was simply sensational.

Steve had the wonderful Papardelle with Duck Ragu and toasted Pistachios followed by Spit Roasted Spring Leg of lamb with Grilled Zucchinni and Roasted Potatoes.

We shared the wonderful sauteed Spinach (with a hint of chilli and lemon rind) and London's best Deep Fried Zucchini.

For desert I had the light and subtle Gianduia cake and Steve opted for the stunning Chocolate Truffle.

Wines ( we went for it - had to be done)

Frans Haas Mana Cru 2007 - Alto Adige
Barolo ‘Le Cinque Vigne’, Damilano 2002 , Piedmont
Ben Rye , Passito Di Pantelleria , Donna Fugata , 2007

The espresso was perfect as usual and it was great to meet and discuss wines with French Sommelier Nicolas Verhoye.

The long trek to West London was a sobering experience !

The Giaconda Dinning Room

This is a great restaurant that serves very good food made from excellent well chosen and sourced ingredients.

The restaurant has about 32 covers and is likely to expand into some unused space at the rear.

It is clear that Paul Merrony the chef and co owner has a very specific food philosophy and has not only had a top (cooking) education that includes Le Gavroche London, La Tour d'Argent in Paris and top restaurants down under but has chosen to apply his superb technique to serving Franco/Italian bourgeois/home cooking with the addition of the odd British classic.

I plan to eat my way through the menu over the next few weeks.

But based on my first meal I was thoroughly impressed.

Artichoke vinaigrette was perfectly cooked , served and presented.

The simply grilled rib eye steak served with some sliced tomatoes that actually had taste was excellent.

I also tasted a good pork chop ( probably Gloucester old spot or Tamworth) and a remarkable pigs trotter starter.

The wine list is mainly French , Italian and Spanish with for London minimal mark ups ( a bit like Andrew Edmonds)

My guest had a prune compote with creme anglaise and ice cream that was stunning whilst I had a very good Stilton from Neal's Yard

Negatives for me were the bread - Ciabatta and the chips. I expected the latter to be hand cut real chips but the restaurant had either run out or always serve Brake Bros or even McCains. I appreciate the restaurant staffed by one front of house and Paul + an apprentice in the kitchen cannot do everything but if you are going to buy in bread than I would recommend something a bit more crusty form say Baker & Spice (wholesale). As for chips no excuses !

This is exceptional cooking at very good value.

11/06/09 Update

I have continued to regularly visit The Giaconda Dinning Room since my first visit and am happy to report that the excellent value and exceptional cooking continues. Paul is very much like his namesake Smith who is famous for classics with a twist.

For example today I had the Rigatoni Putanesca ( normally this is Spaghetti and the addition of Parmigiano a total no no) , Vitello Tonnato ( here radicchio , boiled egg and new potatoes are layered with the thinly sliced veal tonnato) and to finish perfect Eaton Mess with the addition of a poached Peach. Generally the twist tends to work !

It was also good to see Simon Hopkinson a man whose Palate , cooking and writing I greatly admire and respect, enjoying his Lunch here with a couple of friends. I have been lucky enough to eat food cooked by Simon at both Hilare and Bibendum.

I also noted that proper and very good chips were back :-)

Great for Bloggers

Check out Lingospot an interesting way to increase page views and time spent as well as interlinking to impact your SEO.

Best of 2007

Here are my best for 2007 (London)

Best Italian Restaurant : Enoteca Turi

Best Indian : Bombay Palace

Best Indian (Modern) : Benares

Best Chinese : Hunan

Best Japanese : Nobu , Park Lane

Best French : Gordon Ramsey , Royal Hospital Road

Best Spanish : Cambio de Tercio

Best Tapas : Fino & Barfina

Best Fish/Seafood : J Sheekey

Best Gastro Pub : Anchor & Hope

Best Wine Bar : El Vino , Fleet Street

Best Brasserie : Le Caprice

Best Value Wine List : Andrew Edmunds

Most over rated : The Wolsey , River Cafe and Sketch

Best Butcher : Lidgate , Holland Park

Best Baker : Baker & Spice , Chelsea

Best Fishmonger : The Chelsea Fishmonger (Rex Glodsmith),Chelsea Green

Best Cheese Shop : La Fromagerie

Best Wine Merchants : Berry Brothers & Rudd , St James's

Best Fruit & Veg : Andreas Georghiou , Turnham Green Terrace

The Joy of English Asparagus

The Asparagus is in season and the warmish late April and May seems to have produced a bumper crop.

Steam them and eat cover with some quality butter (from France) or steam and then grill - serve with simply grilled tuna or some of the outstanding salmon trout that is around at the moment.

Champions League Final 2008

Very stressful to watch.

We were too cautious in the first 40 minutes but after scoring just before half time we totally controlled the game during normal time and extra time. In fact we were the team most likely to score from the 45th minute onwards.

Then came the penalty shoot out ! This is a lottery no one to blame !

It was not to be.

Trustedplaces

Check out trustedplaces.com it's a really great socio gastro networking site.

There are some fantastic reviews of restaurants , hotels shopping from a growing group of users.

King of King Making

I have been lucky enough to meet Nicola Bertinelli as well as eat his superb Parmigiano - Reggiano.

Nicola who runs this family business understands the importance of total quality to ensure he can create amazing cheese.

Bertinelli controls the entire food value chain to ensure excellence - he owns the cows and the land that produces the grass and hay they eat to make the milk for the cheese.

His premium product called Milisimato - 24 or 36 months is made with the milk from the first 100 days after the calf is born - producing a richness , intensity and nuttiness that is second to none.

Most cheese approved by the Conzorzio Parmigiano - Reggiano is made by cooperatives where the huge quantities of milk needed to maake the King of hard cheeses are sourced from wholesalers and traceability is not really possible.

Just like wine or truffles beware of inferior products and imitators who try and live of the reputation of the true gastronomic greats !

Parmigiano-Reggiano is a grana, a hard, granular cheese, cooked but not pressed, named after the producing areas of Parma, Reggio Emilia, Modena and Mantova .

Nicola Bertinelli will one day be known as the cheese equivalent of those great Italian Wine pioneers who have done so much to elevate Italy into the first division of wines - Gaja , Antinori , Frescobaldi etc.

www.bertinelli.it

A Hedonist in the Cellar: Adventures in Wine

I really enjoyed reading this straight through, cover to cover. Jay McInereney writes beautifully and shares his personal taste (and insights) on the subject of wine in a delightfully charming and under stated manner.

Despite the fact that I probably have similar tastes and views as the author on the subject matter this should not deter a prospective reader with interest and empathy for the greatest intoxicant - Wine !

McInereney has demonstrated in this book why wine provides intellectual as well as sensual pleasure that leads us into the realms of " geology, botany, metreology , history aesthetics aand literature "

Best of 2006

Here are my best for 2006 (London)

Best Italian Restaurant : Enoteca Turi

Best Indian : Vama

Best Chinese : Hunan

Best Japanese : Nobu , Park Lane

Best French : Gordon Ramsey , Royal Hospital Road

Best Fish/Seafood : J Sheekey

Best Gastro Pub : Anchor & Hope

Best Wine Bar : El Vino , Fleet Street

Best Brasserie : Le Caprice

Most overated : The Wolsey and River Cafe

Best Butcher : Lidgate , Holland Park

Best Baker : Baker & Spice , Chelsea

Best Fishmonger : The Chelsea Fishmonger (Rex Glodsmith),Chelsea Green

Best Wine Merchants : Berry Brothers & Rudd , St James's

Best Fruit & Veg : Andreas Georghiou , Turnham Green Terrace

3-5-2 or was it 5-3-2

Steve Mclaren was obviously playing the latter because Gary Neville only passed the ball forward once in the entire match - he does not have the skill or pace to be a wing back whilst Cole saw how slow Jamie Carragher was in a bck 3 that he was in shock for most of the game neither wing back or left back !

In defence of the manager and players they did not have much of a chance to win but could have sneaked a draw. Without Gerrard, Hargreaves and Joe Cole they had little chance of beating a team that has never lost a home international match and easily dealt with Crouch who continues to refuse to jump because he thinks at 6 ft 7 in he does not need too !

The team and manager are now being slaughtered mainly because of crazy expectations . when will fans and media realise England are a tier 2 footballing nation not even knocking on the door of tier 1 to join Brazil , Germany,Argentina and Italy - well behind France and the Netherlands...........

A webserver on your phone

Wow seems this Nokia project could have massive implications when MNO's sort out their charges for data and realise they are competing with broadband !

(Click on title to go to Nokia )

Advertising 2.0

A must read for those in Advertising , Marketing and Media. Paul Beelen gives a brilliant summary and analysis on how technology is empowering the consumer and disrupting the traditional advertising and broadcast models !

(Click on the title of this post to download the White Paper )

The Perfect Spaghetti Al Pomodoro E Basilico

This is a simple dish but it is amazing how many people over complicate it or make a total hash of it.

With any recipe it's good quality ingredients , 25% execution and cooking technique.

So if you are making this dish in winter or live in a country where good sun ripened tomatoes are not easy to find then use a good brand of tinned San Marzano tomatoes like Analissa , avoid the Cirio brand who ruin the tomatoes by pasturisation. Choose a decent Italian virgin olive oil , good fresh garlic (my preference is for L'Ail Rose de Lautrec)fresh basil again with a provenance from a hot sunny country rather than northern EuropeAn greenhouse varieties.

Also choose a good brand of 'artisanal" orindustrial Spaghetti ( forget fresh pasta - this should only be homemade using the best durum wheat flour and fresh farm eggs and suitable for certain types of shapes/dishes Tagliatelle, Parpadelle, Tortelli, Ravioli etc.( why millions of Brits buy chilled fresh pasta from supermarkets I really don't know) I recommend Spaghetti Giueseppe Cocco or better still one of the top Gragnano pastas like Gentile , Di Nola , Di Martino etc..

Four 4

500g of Pasta
800g of ripe Italian San Marzano Tomatoes or 900g or a top DOP tinned product
4 Table Spoons of good Extra Virgin Olive Oil
1 full heaped tea spoon of tomato concentrate
4 cloves of garlic
6-8 Basil Leaves
2 tea spoons of good sea salt
pinch of sugar
Pepper to taste

For Sauce
Heat oil in large frying pan and add garlic chopped
Before garlic turns brown add peeled and de seeded tomatoes
Add sugar and concentrate salt and pepper
Keep heat on full and help tomato flesh break up
Cook on full for 2-3 minutes then on low for 5 minutes then push on the tomatoes a bit more with a woden spoon to bing the sauce so it looks like a lumpy sauce

For Pasta
Bring water in a large pan to the boil add two or 3 tea spoons of sea salt
Add pasta and cook til al dente
Drain the pasta and throw into the frying pan with sauce tear half the basil by hand and mix in
Serve the pasta in deep dishes and decorate each plate with the remaing Basil

Serve with or without (mimimum) 24 month old King of the Cheeses - Parmigiano Regaino !

The Anchor and Hope . The Cut ,Waterloo, London

There are few destination Gastro pubs in Britain. Some of us are lucky enough to have some near our homes.

Apart from The Eagle on Farringdon Road where on some days you can get a beautifully cooked "Onglet" with a red wine and shallott reduction , I would normally not cross town for a Gastro Pub meal. However I'm now finding I need a fix at least once a week.

It's a place where you can enjoy "world class" bourgeois cooking like , Cassoulet , Ox Cheek stew with Dumplings , Slow cooked Tamworth ( along with Gloucsester Old Spot the only edible pork in Britain) with sauerkraut , Lanchashire Hot Pot , great soups and decent deserts. Go in a group and share some of the dishes for 4 or 3 that come in rustic looking pipping hot Le Creuset cookware !

The people who run the place have excellent backgrounds at The Eagle and the St John.

Samson and Delilah a fake ?

A major new Rubens exhibition opened at the National Gallery in London on October 26th, which I guess many of you will go to, and which puts Samson and Delilah t at its heart..

There is a very strong body of eveidence that argues that the painting is a latter day copy of the origninal.

(Click on the title of this post to see the evidence )

New World Wines v European Wines

I'm amazed at the amount of awful cheap and overpriced wines being consumed in the UK.

The UK is the largest importer of wine by value in the world. It is a key, if not primary, target export market for most wine producing countries, but particularly Australia and the United States. The UK consumer has access to an unrivalled range of countries of origin and varietals with the bulk of sale controlled by the major UK supermarket chains. UK consumption of wine has been increasing at the expense of beer, with per capita consumption up by 40 percent over the last ten years. Red wine consumption has now overtaken white wine, which is thought to indicate the maturity and increasing level of knowledge of UK consumers. The UK wine consumer profile has changed little in recent years; generally he/she is over 25 and in the upper middle/middle class (classified as AB social grade) and are drinking more frequently, particularly at-home.

At the cheaper end of the market we now have glorified grape juice mainly from Australia and the U.S. that probably is made in huge quantities and goes from grape to bottle faster than it takes to produce a battery chicken (from egg to supermarket in 6 weeks ! )

At the higher end due to overpricing at both end of the supply chain, customs duties, tax etc. The top US and Aus wines are over priced and not good value.

The best value in my humble opinion for every day drinking and outstanding pricier wines are to be found in France and in regions like Languedoc- Roussillion, Cotes de Provence and Rhone. New wine makers often not French, adoption of modern marketing techniques and passion are awakening the sleeping giant.That is not to say Bordeaux , Burgundy and Alsace should be ignored the best of the best is still to be found there.

When it’s fully awake the New World is in for a serious hiding!

Don't believe me! Try for example the range of Côtes Roussilion wines produced by Hėrve Bizuel Les Sorciēres retails at under £10 and his top of the range Le Clos des Fees at over £30 is sublime. He has a great web site in English and French (click on the title of this post to go there) as well as a Blog (the link is on the site). Wines are tough to find but Oddbins Fine Wine outlets tend to stock them before they fly out of the door!

I spent my summer holidays in the Var not far from Draginaugn where I had not only the well known rosés but great Roll based whites and superb Cabernet Sauvignon bended not only with the usual partners but also Syrah. More about this in a forthcoming post.

Switched off in Basra

The New York Times journalist Steven Vincent's final story, (click on the title of this post to read in full), told of a police 'death car' operating in Basra. Shortly afterwards he was bundled into a pick-up and shot in the head.

This chilling report really does read like an epitaph of his own murder !

Wahhabism,Salafism, Biblical Literalism and Orthodox Judaism

I recommend a brief exploration of the above terms in wikipedia.

What is the common thread ? That some words written centuries ago are "Divine" and cannot be changed by man ?

Then explore Fundamentalism, Islamism, Zionism , Neo Conservtives.......

Conclusion ? Religion and Politics the deadly cocktail ?

( Click on the title of this post to start exploring these terms in wikpedia )